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When you receive your spring bulbs (tulips, daffodils, etc.) keep them in a dry, dark, cool place until ready to plant. They need air circulation so they will not collect moisture and rot. Planting times can vary from early October in the North to mid-to-late November in the southern regions. A good rule of thumb is to plant them about 6 weeks before the ground is frozen or after the first hard freeze.
Soil Preparation for Bulbs
Great gardens start with great soil! Good soil preparation is essential to successful gardening. Healthy, living soil should have good tilth, nutrient content and a viable population of beneficial microorganisms. We recommend using natural and organic ingredients to prepare the soil and maintain soil fertility. A compost-enriched, well-drained soil is best. Incorporate a good quality organic compost with an excellent source of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium which is needed for strong plants and healthy roots. Mix a small amount into the bottom of the hole before planting your bulbs.
It is always a good idea to have a soil test to identify your soil type (sandy, loam, silt, clay etc.) and find out your soil pH.
Many bulbs prefer full sun exposure. However, Muscaria, Allium, Galanthus, Hyacinthoides, Scilla and many Daffodils will tolerate partial shade and bloom well. Pink daffodils will hold their color longer if planted in dappled shade or morning sun/afternoon shade.
After planting, add a top dressing of compost or other organic material and water in thoroughly. If your winter is dry, water every three to four weeks throughout the winter and add more mulch if necessary.
Protect your Bulbs
Apply a mole or gopher repellent to the surface of the ground to protect bulbs from these burrowing mammals. As bulbs sprout, use a deer repellant to prevent deer and rabbits from browsing your spring blooms.
Areas With Cold Winters (Zones 1-7)
Fall Bulbs should be planted as soon as the ground is cool, when evening temperatures average between 40° - 50° F. Ground temperatures reaching 40° - 50° F during fall is most common in cold climates (zones 1-7), generally 6-8 weeks before the ground freezes. However, as long as you can dig and your ground is workable, you can still plant! You can, if necessary, store bulbs for a month or longer if you keep them in a cool, dry place.
Areas With Warm Winters (Zones 8-11)
Planting Fall Bulbs in warm climates (zones 8-11), where bulbs will not experience enough cold temperatures in the ground, will require pre-chilling in order to bloom. To pre-chill, leave bulbs in their bags and place in a refrigerator. Be careful not to store bulbs near fruit, especially apples, because all ripening fruit gives off ethylene gas, which can damage or kill the flower inside the bulb. Once bulbs have chilled, plant them at the coolest time of the year. Most importantly, bulbs won't last till next season, so make sure to plant them!
Chilling Period
Hyacinth: Chill for 11-14 weeks
Crocus, Grape Hyacinth, Scillia, and Tulips: Chill for 12-15 weeks
Daffodils and Specie Iris: Chill for 15 weeks
Choose where to plant: You can plant bulbs just about anywhere in your garden, as long as the soil drains well avoid areas where water collects, such as the bottom of hills. Bulbs like sun, and in many areas, the spring garden can be very sunny since the leaves on the trees are not out yet. So keep in mind when planting in the fall that you can plant in many places for spring blooms.
Prepare the planting bed: Dig soil so it's loose and workable. If it's not an established garden bed, chances are the soil could use the addition of some organic matter such as compost or peat moss. Loosen soil in the planting bed to a depth of at least 8”. Remove any weeds, rocks or other debris. You can mix in compost, other organic matter or slow releasing fertilizer if your soil lacks nutrients.
Plant: A general rule is to plant big bulbs about 8" deep and small bulbs about 5" deep. Set the bulb in the hole pointy side up or the roots down. It's easy to spot the pointy end of a tulip, and tougher with a crocus. If you can't figure out the top from the bottom, plant the bulb on its side, in most cases, even if you don't get it right, the flower will still find its way topside.
Water: Now that the bulbs are planted, back fill with soil over the hole, lightly compress the soil but do not pack it. Water once to stimulate root growth and to fill any air pockets. There is no need to water continuously unless you live in an area with low precipitation in the winter months.
Now, all you have to do is wait for warm spring weather and blooms!
PLANTING GUIDE
They’re generally planted when soils are below 60°F in the late fall. This is usually during September and October in the North, or October and November in the South. (Tulips are one exception—you can plant tulips as late in winter as you can get them into the soil.) In general, the time to plant fall bulbs is about 6 weeks before a hard frost is expected.
|
Common Name |
Hardiness Zone |
Soil | Sun/Shade | Spacing (in) | Depth (in) | Blooming Season | Height (in) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bluebell | 4–9 | Well–drained/ fertile |
Full sun/ Partial Shade |
4 | 3-4 | Spring | 8–20 |
| Christmas Rose/ Hellebore |
4–8 | Neutral—alkaline | Full sun/ Partial Shade |
18 | 1-2 | Spring | 12 |
| Crocus | 3–8 | Well–drained/ moist/fertile |
Full sun/ Partial Shade |
4 | 3 | Early Spring | 5 |
| Daffodil | 3–10 | Well–drained/ moist/fertile |
Full sun/ Partial Shade |
6 | 6 | Early Spring | 14–24 |
| Fritillary | 3–9 | Well–drained/ sandy |
Full sun/ Partial Shade |
3 | 3 | Midspring | 6–30 |
| Glory of the snow | 3–9 | Well–drained/ moist |
Full sun/ Partial Shade |
3 | 3 | Spring | 4–10 |
| Grape hyacinth | 4–10 | Well–drained/ moist/fertile |
Full sun/ Partial Shade |
3–4 | 2–3 | Late winter to spring |
6–12 |
| Iris, bearded | 3–9 | Well–drained | Full sun/ Partial Shade |
4 | 4 | Early spring to early summer |
3–48 |
| Iris, Siberian | 4–9 | Well–drained | Full sun/ Partial Shade |
4 | 4 | Early spring to midsummer |
18–48 |
|
Ornamental onion Allium |
3–10 | Well–drained/ moist/fertile |
Full sun | 12 | 3–4 | Late spring to early summer |
6–60 |
| Snowdrop | 3–9 | Well–drained/ moist/fertile |
Full sun/ Partial Shade |
3 | 3 | Spring | 6–12 |
| Snowflake | 5–9 | Well–drained/ moist/sandy |
Full sun/ Partial Shade |
4 | 4 | Spring | 6–18 |
| Spring starflower | 6–9 | Well–drained loam | Full sun/ Partial Shade |
3–6 | 3 | Spring | 4–6 |
| Star of Bethlehem | 5–10 | Well–drained/ moist |
Full sun/ Partial Shade |
2–5 | 4 | Spring to summer | 6–24 |
| Striped squill | 3–9 | Well–drained | Full sun/ Partial Shade |
6 | 3 | Spring | 4–6 |
| Tulip | 4–8 | Well–drained/ fertile |
Full sun/ Partial Shade |
3–6 | 4–6 | Early to late spring |
8–30 |
| Winter aconite | 4–9 | Well–drained/ moist/fertile |
Full sun/ Partial Shade |
3 | 2–3 | Late winter to spring |
2–4 |
After your Bulbs have Bloomed
Once your bulbs have bloomed, allow the bulb foliage to brown and fade naturally since the leaves are feeding the bulb in the ground. Removal of foliage weakens the bulb and leads to fewer blooms the following year. Planting your bulbs amongst your perennials is one way to conceal the dying bulb foliage. The perennials begin to grow and fill out as the bulb foliage dies back. The perennials will then provide foliage and color in the garden from late spring through the summer and into fall. Regular fertilization with balanced organic or natural fertilizer and a re-application of mulch each fall will ensure more and more beautiful spring bulb blooms for many years!